Posted by estiator at 10 July, at 03 : 12 AM Print

SPIRITS OF ATHENS

EXPLORING GREECE’S CRAFT COCKTAIL SCENE

With craft cocktails moving out from the largest metropolises in the U.S., to suburban points and beyond, Estiator thought to take our readers on a “bar crawl” of sorts, visiting the most notable watering holes in the Greek capital and digging into the craft that has earned them the reputation for being some of the best on the planet

BY CONSTANTINE N. KOLITSAS

FOR many Greek Americans travelling to Greece, Athens was for a long time just a stopover on the way to an island, or an ancestral village.  Sure, there was the obligatory couple of days spent visiting the ancient sites with the kids; but for families that traveled back regularly, that typically happened just once or twice.  Anyone who zips through Athens on their way to somewhere else these, days, however, is missing out.  Big Time.  The city, alive with creative chef-driven restaurants, eclectic music venues, mentionable galleries and chic, ultra-modern museums, is an exciting and vibrant destination in itself.  And with a progressive, mixology-centric bar scene in Athens (rated one of the best in the world), there’s one more reason to hang over – er, lay over – in the Greek capital for at least a few days!  According to the prestigious Drinks International organization, Athens is home to two of the world’s Top 50 Cocktail Bars.

For those visitors whose knowledge of the Greek language is rusty or non-existent, they can comfort themselves in the fact that nearly everyone in the Athens hospitality world speaks fluent English.  Add to this, the natural hospitable (and talkative) nature of the Greeks, and a tour of the city’s drinking parlors can be as informative as it is enjoyable.

The epicenter of the Athenian cocktail scene is, without debate, the City Center, or “Kentron”, spanning from Keremaikos (known by archeology buffs for its ancient cemetery), south to the picturesque neighborhood of Thiseion and running east across the industrial-turned-hip Psirri, the flea market haven Monastiraki, politico-dwelling Syntagma Square, and nearby Plaka, the city’s engaging old quarter.  The Acropolis, lit majestically after nightfall, sits within this perimeter, offering a breathtaking sight, especially from the rooftop bars that dot the area.  Some of the best bars, in fact, are so close to be within walking distance of one another, making a bar crawl possible with little taxi fare between stops.

WHO’S WHO

Dimitrios Zahariadis, a master mixologist residing in New England, is a frequent visitor to Athens, where he has befriended most of the elite bartenders on the scene (see the inaugural entry of his new Estiator column, The Shift Drink, in this month’s issue).  Having spent some of his childhood there, Zahariadis is as comfortable among his industry brethren in the Greek capital as he is with his colleagues in the U.S. Bartenders Guild (where he served as founding member of the Connecticut branch).

“It all starts with Michael Menegos,” says Zahariadis of the celebrated barman who, in the mid-90s, manned the bar at Guru, a since-shuttered ambitious Thai restaurant where he drew attention by creating sake and plum wine martinis.  It was there that Menegos mentored Thanos Prunarus, who would go on to create Baba au Rum in 2009, the city’s first contemporary bar dedicated to craft cocktails.  Prunarus, who started the trend of creating bars with specific and well-conceived points-of-view, went on to become the godfather of the Athenian bartender crowd, pioneering the scene and inspiring others to follow the trail he was blazing.  He was recently recognized as one of the top 11 finalists for the Havana Club Bar Entrepreneur award.

In the meantime, Prunarus’s Baba au Rum has also garnered recognition well beyond the city’s limits.  His drinkery, with one of the largest collections of rum in the world, has been repeatedly included in the list of Top 50 Best Bars by Drinks International, while also winning a place as one of the 10 World Best Sprit Selections at the Tales of the Cocktail bar festival in New Orleans.

Greek bartenders first attracted international attention when Aristotelis Papadopoulos, the Thessaloniki-based co-owner of Soulshakers Bar Services, snagged the World Best Bartender title in 2009 at the prestigious Diageo World Class competition.  Recognized globally, he currently serves as a judge in Diageo’s Greek and Global competitions.

Today, Papadopoulos is succeeded by his fellow Salonikan, Achilleas Plakidas, owner of Gorilla Bar in Thessaloniki’s storied Ano Ladadika district.  Plakidas, winner of the 2018 Diageo World Class Greece competition, was listed among the top 25 World Best Bartenders.  At Gorilla he is known for his experimental approach, with his bartending team employing centrifuges, vacuums, sousvide and other gadgets to create inspired cocktails.

Back in Athens, meanwhile, Thodoris Pirillos is among an elite group of mixologists that are creating magic within the City Center.  From behind the bar at the rooftop A is for Athens, Pirillos, the recipient of Athinorama magazine’s Creativity Award, crafts cocktails inspired from music, film, travels and history.  For his current cocktail menu Pirillos has returned to his classical Greek roots, with beverages inspired by and named for Homer’s Odyssey.  Among them:  Circe’s Punch (Jameson Original, Havana Club Añejo Reserva, Metaxa, Mahlep, pineapple, cereal clarified  milk, Vinsanto, citrus, and a hint of pale ale); Amnesia (Havana Club Añejo, Aperol, Italicus pergamont liqueur, and fermented milk); and The Sirens (Otto’s  Vermouth, mezcal, maraschino and a hint of tsipouro).

The mixologist community in Athens, says Zahariadis, was something that grew organically as one bartender trained another who trained another and so on and so forth.  The result, he says, is that Athens now has some of the greatest bartenders in the world.  Every year, says Zahariadis, he travels back to perform guest shifts at many of the top establishments.  In fact, he intimates, it was at The Clumsies, which is regularly in the Drink International Top Ten of World’s Best Bars, where he got engaged.

OPPORTUNITY

It’s almost antithetical but nonetheless true that many of the top bars in Athens were inaugurated during the darkest days of Greece’s financial crisis; a crisis that is still underway.  For Lelos Georgopoulos, one of the most important Athenian bar owners, this is partially explained by the fact that the best bars were able to understand that people were more conscious of what they spent their money on, telling the Havana Club that: “people would spend a lot of money on whiskey coke or vodka red bull – 35 euros for three drinks. All of a sudden, they couldn’t afford it anymore. Now, they spend 20 euros, but they want to make sure it’s money well spent. It’s not a whisky coke, it’s two amazing cocktails. It’s not four or five beers, it’s two beers from an excellent microbrewery.”  His bars adapted immediately by offering bargoers something different, with unique flavors.

Georgopoulos’s story is inspiring.  Admittedly, he is one of the few well-known bar owners that did not come up through the ranks of bartender.  Rather, he was the PR person for an Athens bar where he parlayed a small ownership stake (given to him for the success he had in regularly bringing in customers) into full partnership in a new bar in the suburb of Chalandri, where he was raised and where he continues to live.  That bar, Theory & More, became an instant success.  From there, Georgopoulos embraced talented bartenders and helped them to create new and exciting bars, including The Clumsies, Odori (a vermouth bar), Senios (focused on Greek spirits) and Frater & Soror (elongated abbreviations for “Fraternity” and “Sorority”), a two-level bar where gin is the center of attention and a secret dining restaurant, Phi Beta Kappa, is situated on a third, basement level.

The success of each establishment, he says, is in the fact that he and his teams have not tried to duplicate one bar but, rather, have created experiences that are unique and independent of one another.

The Clumsies, which he owns with bartender/partners Nikos Bakoulis and Vasilis Kyritsis, occupies a 100-year old building in the center of Athens that the team restored during the height of the crisis.  The three-floor operation is open from morning to late night and also serves food, a formula that Georgopoulos re-introduced to the bar scene and which is standard in all of the establishments to which he is party.  The top floor is a small room that is mostly rented out for private parties – a sanctum santorum, of sorts that requires some special magic to reserve.  A private bar and bartender are a part of the experience.  The bar’s lengthy cocktail list changes seasonally.  According to Kyritsis, some of the most popular of the current menu include the Nostalgia, Symmetry, Fortified Baklava Wine and the Fermented Americano, which includes ingredients such as wine made from berries, and concentrated martini bitters, all of which are fermented on premises (a fermentation room was recently opened in the building’s basement) and naturally carbonated.

The Clumsies attracts a hip, young crowd that have the option of dancing, drinking at the long bar in the main room, or relaxing in one of the old building’s many rooms.

In the last decade, the Athenian nightlife scene has become increasingly sophisticated, with hipster chic leading the way.  In fact, by all of the tattoos (or “body art”) and thick, trimmed beards, one might get the impression they were in the Pacific Northwest, or, perhaps, Brooklyn.  Large crowds of locals and tourists are attracted to the unique venues, unique concepts and unique experiences, with hundreds of unique cocktails imagined by some of the most creative minds in cocktaildom.  Thankfully, there is no Greek word for hangover.  And with that, we bid you “Cheers!”

BAR CRAWLING …IN ATHENS

360 DEGREES BAR

2 IFAISTOU ST., MONASTIRAKI

The “degrees” here refer to this rooftop bar’s panoramic view, and not a Fahrenheit scale (or Celsius).  Located next to the Monastiraki metro station atop the 360 Degree hotel, this all-day spot has great views of the Acropolis to go with its great line-up of signature cocktails.

A IS FOR ATHENS

MIAOULI 2-4, KENTRON (CENTER)

This rooftop bar offers stunning views of the Acropolis, Plaka and Monastiraki. Their team of mixologists is among the best that the city has to offer, serving a creative list of specialty signature cocktails inspired by Homer’s Odyssey.

BABA AU RUM

KLEITIOU 6, KENTRON (CENTER)

One of the largest rum collections in the world, this bar is considered by many to be the first modern cocktail bar in the city and ranks on the list of the World’s Top 50 Bars (currently sitting at #30).  Owner Thanos Prunarus says he chose to showcase rum because of its versatility, appealing to mojito drinkers and cognac aficionados alike.

BEER TIME

PLATIA IROON 1, PSIRRI

Greek craft brews and interesting imports, often served in mini-kegs brought right to your table make this a standout on the Athens bar scene.  Before the revival of Fix, there was predominantly Amstel and Heineken for beer choices, with Mythos and Alfa coming into focus in the 90s.  Today’s craft scene has dozens of titles in nearly every style, including IPA, of course.

THE CLUMSIES

PRAXITELOUS 30, KENTRON (CENTER)

Ranked #7 in the most recent list of World’s Best Bars, this all day bar (operates from 10:00 am through wee hours of the morning) in the heart of Athens takes craft cocktails to a new level, complete with a laboratory that produces most of the ingredients used for its signature drinks.  The spot is very popular with the young, hip crowd.

THE GIN JOINT

CHRISTOU LADA 1, KENTRON (CENTER)

Diffords Guide (the world’s “definitive” resource for cocktails, bartenders, bars, wine and spirits), declares this is a “tiny bar with a huge reputation”.   As its name suggests, this is the place for negronis and martinis – some of which are tapped.

HOLY SPIRIT

LAODIKIS 41, GLYFADA

Down by the sea, this funky, colorful bar offers funky, colorful cocktails.  Recently expanded, the restaurant, in the heart of the Athens version of Miami, is filled with twenty-somethings (and a few thirty-somethings) that enjoy the bar’s indoors ‘n’ outdoors and an opportunity to strut their stuff.

MOMIX

KELEOU 1-5, KERAMEIKOS

The first to create beverages through molecular mixology in the Greek capital, MoMix Kerameikos has an urban lab-industrial feel where customers can watch the molecular transformation of cocktails take place on the spot in what is often an interactive experience.  An outdoor space adds to its allure.

NOEL

KOLOKOTRONI 59B, KENTRON (CENTER)

Yes Virginia, there is a year-round Christmas-themed bar in Athens.  And if the thought sound kitsch, get that thought out of your mind – the décor is surprisingly elegant.  The bar has a bookstore inside if you want to find the meaning of life as you imbibe, and you can sometimes catch a DJ spinning tunes.

ODORI

SKOULENIOU 2, KENTRON (CENTER)

From one of the owners of The Clumsies comes Odori Vermuteria di Atene (or “Odori Vermouth Bar of Athens” – “Odori” for short).  As its full name suggests, vermouth is the beverage star of this popular bar, which also serves authentic Napoletana pizza cooked in a high-heat wood oven for just sixty seconds.

OINOSCENT

VOULIS 45-47, PLAKA

Knowledgeable owners and staff offer great insights on wines (Greek wines being of particular interest) at this wine bar (no cocktails) with an extensive by-the-glass program.  The establishment’s cellar stocks over 700 labels, and bottles of wine are sold retail, with an additional 8 euros corking fee if you choose to drink the bottle there.

POINT A

ROVERTOU GALLI 4A, THISSION

Amazing views of the Acropolis, as well as views inside the well-lit Acropolis museum from this rooftop bar are a bonus, but the real attraction is its cocktails, many of which are created with fresh or dried Greek herbs, including basil, chamomile, thyme, and mint.

SEVEN JOKERS

VOULIS 7, KENTRON (CENTER)

This cozy, small watering hole offers inexpensive drinks and great cocktails.  Favored by expats working at the nearby Reuters office as well as bartenders and industry insiders who take advantage of their late late hours, frequent customers claim the place is busiest between 3:00 AM and 6:00 AM.

THEORY BAR & MORE

CHAIMANTA 12, CHALANDRI

 Athenians travel out from the center to the northern suburb of Chalandri just to enjoy a cocktail in this all day bar’s stone-paved courtyard, with its miniature palm trees and intimate seating.  The neighborhood, home to superb bars, cafes and shops, is turning into one of the city’s most up-and-coming commercial areas.

SPIRTOKOUTO

15 KIRIADON, PETRALONA

Meaning “Matchbox”, this cozy bar in the shadows of Filopappou Hill is a retro bar/ café where its cheap drinks make it particularly popular with the young crowd.  Its eclectic décor is ever-evolving, while its playlist pumps out alternative music from the 80s/90s.

BAR CRAWLING …BEYOND ATHENS

BAO’S COCKTAIL BAR LAMPROU

KATSONI 1, MYKONOS

Located in the chic playground island’s Little Venice section, Bao’s is named for a mythical 18th century pirate who rebelled against the Turks nearly a century before the Greek revolution.  Locals and tourists-in-residence flock here for the sundowner cocktail hour where they imbibe “daring” beverages.

GORILLA BAR

3 VEROIAS ST., THESSALONIKI

Nestled in the beautiful, old area of Ano Ladadika, Gorilla Bar offers a warm industrial space with handcrafted details.  On the cocktail side, the bartenders offer seasonal menus of innovative, unconventional craft combinations contrived in their fully-equipped on-site laboratory.

GROOOVE

DIMARCHOU KONTARATOU 4, VOLOS

Named Greece’s best bar for 2019 by Athinorama magazine (the country’s arbiter of popular culture and entertainment), this hip spot in the center of the city (320 kilometers from Athens) offers great cocktails, good music and a fantastic vibe.  And, yes, that’s three o’s in “Grooove”…

PK COCKTAIL BAR

FIRA, SANTORINI

Often referred to as Greece’s best “sunset bar”, this three-level open-air bar overlooks Santorini’s mythic caldera, serving creative cocktails throughout the summer and long after (remaining open into December and January).  Cocktails made with watermelon, pistachio and local fresh herbs highlight its eclectic menu.

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